Tuesday, February 26, 2013

Monument Valley

 "Where are the monuments?!" I grew impatient as we approached the end of our four-hour drive to Monument Valley from Flagstaff. I spotted mural-covered buildings, cattle, and empty turquoise jewelry stands, but no spires, buttes or mesas were in sight.

At last, miles from Kayenta, road signs for the Utah border surfaced, and the first towering spires came into view. I've never been so ecstatic about visiting some rock formations in the middle of nowhere.



John Wayne once called the area home to those 400- to 1000-foot tall red-rock monoliths God's treasure. Monument Valley, on the Utah-Arizona border in the Navajo Reservation, treats visitors to ever-changing scenic vistas as the day progresses. Depending on the angle and cloud coverage, the sky above the sandstone giants can be painted in gold, orange, red, pink, purple or blue.

My bucket list calls for camping in Monument Valley under the stars, but the campgrounds are currently closed for construction. Also, temperatures in early February were in the 30s and 40s. But someday, on a few warm spring or autumn days, it'll happen. I've read about campers paying residents to camp on their private land, so this is something I may research instead of using the designated campgrounds.

We stayed at the sand-colored View Hotel, the tribal park's only hotel, which had the best view of any hotel room I've seen. From our hotel room's balcony, the view showcased a sea of desert shrubbery, as well as West and East Mitten and Merrick buttes. A dirt road snaked around the desert landscape and disappeared in the distance. Elephant Butte lies to the right of that, and from afar we could see Rain God Mesa and others. Most rooms face the Valley, where guests can admire the sunrise and day's changing shadows and colors.


Monument Valley Tribal Park visitors pay $5 per person to get into the park. (Hotel guests receive a receipt that gets them out of having to repay the entrance fee if they leave the park.) A hotel may sound out of place in a valley of rock art, but the hotel melds into the surrounding earth. Eco-friendly seems to be its theme.

The first item on the agenda was to get a closer look at the formations. Something quickly gleaned from reading the park's brochure is that the more of Monument Valley you want to see, the more you must pay. The Valley Drive, the signature attraction, is free, but its limited to a route that doesn't approach the east side of Thunderbird Mesa, Sleeping Dragon, Suns Eye, Submarine Rock, Ear of the Wind, Yei Bi Chei, and (closer to) Totem Poles.

Along the drive, you'll notice lots of trails, along with "No trespassing" and "No hiking" signs. These are reminders that along with being a natural wonder that draws people from around the world, Monument Valley is what some people call home.

Valley Drive does provide lots of admire and photograph. First you get a closer look at East and West Mittens and Merrick buttes. Chances are that when you see a photograph of Monument Valley the Mittens will be featured. These are the buttes I envisioned when the name Monument Valley was mentioned in the past.

We soon approached Three Sisters, a trio of pillars that are said to resemble a Catholic nun and her two pupils. There we saw the first of only three other cars we would encounter on the two and a half hour drive.


Camel Butte was to our left. The drive then curves around Rain God Mesa, a massive formation whose sides appear to have been chopped by a dinner knife. On the ground you can see broken pieces of boulders. It's impressive and a little intimidating. The face of a rain god is said to be visible on the rock face.

The stops near Sands Spring Aquifers (Stops 7 and 8 on the drive map) provide a view of Totem Poles and Yei Bi Chei from afar. The Cube seems to balance in front of Spearhead Mesa's edge. Restricted trails lead toward the Totem Poles, a temptation to go on a guided tour.



The drive then approaches Artist Point Overlook, where one can capture panoramic photographs of Sentinel Mesa, the Mittens, Elephant Butte, Cly Butte and, from miles away, Big Chief, Castle Butte, and other spires. Spearhead Mesa towers to the right. We later saw goats feasting on the desert flora in front of it. I could picture artists unloading their easels and paint supplies to record the view on canvas.

Snow was visible on mountains to the north.

Next up is North Window Overlook, which offers a new vantage point for photographs. Cly and Elephant buttes form a frame around the monuments in the distance, including East Mitten Butte, the closest sandstone giant. A jewelry stand was open near the turnoff to the overlook, and a flag captured my attention. It was an American flag with a Native American in the center. To the left stood the aptly named Thumb.

North Window

The road then completes its loop around Rain God Mesa and returns back toward the Mittens, ending at the View Hotel's parking lot.

The long drive can stir up an appetite. The only restaurants in the Monument Valley area are the View Hotel's restaurant and the Dining Room at Goulding's Lodge, about 4 miles from the hotel. The View's Restaurant closes from 2 p.m. until dinner at 5, so our only option was Goulding's. Meals at both eateries come with a view; the View's is obviously better, as it's closer to the monuments. Goulding's has lots of history though, which you can learn about at the museum. (John Wayne has stayed in a cabin there, and you can learn about movies filmed in Monument Valley.)

The menu prices weren't unreasonable at either; $8.99 for a veggie or beef burger with fries at Goulding's, for example. We were two out of 9 people in the entire restaurant, making for a quiet meal. The check arrived with a puzzling surprise. Our burgers and drinks added up to about $25, but only $20 was charged on my card. I decided to come clean so that the server could correct the error. To my surprise, I was given a local discount. I confessed to not being a local, but I received it anyway.

I wanted to take this home.

With bellies full and a nap under our belts, we decided to go on a hike. Unguided hiking options are limited to two trails. Wildcat Trail makes a 3.3-mile loop around West Mitten Butte, and a park brochure touted its spectacular views from the Valley floor. A guidebook in the hotel room suggested hiking Wildcat at sunrise. It also described the Mesa Rim Trail but gave no clue as to where to find it. The hotel's front desk worker directed us to the parking lot, where the milelong trail begins. It's easy but gets steeper as you approach Mitchell Mesa.

Along the way, I spotted about 15 or more "safe travels" piles of rocks. As you ascend, the easy-to-follow trail gets a bit tricky to discern in some spots, so these small markers helped immensely. We stopped on a large boulder to admire the sunset behind Gray Whiskers and Mitchell Butte. The ascent allows views of the Valley from a higher vantage point, but the wind also seemed to pick up as our elevation increased. Three layers of clothing helped.

Trying to stay warm on our hike.
Guided tours are the ticket to seeing the best of Monument Valley. Some tours take visitors to Mystery Valley, in the southwestern part of Monument Valley, to see natural arches, pictographs and Anasazi ruins, according to the New York Times. The tribal park's website lists authorized tour guides. Some of the tour operators offer discounts in the winter.

Later that day I would again be offered the local discount. I was flattered but stayed honest. At dinner, we tried the Navajo tacos, which reminded me of Mexican sopes, and nachos and a quesadilla. Neither of those options was too expensive, at about $8-9 each. When we arrived there were maybe six tables occupied; that increased to about ten when we left. It was too dark at this point to enjoy a view, but Native American flute music played and candles were lit. Don't expect to unwind with an alcoholic beverage, though you can sip on a glass of non-alcoholic wine or beer, tea, and other drinks.

Call it an early night so that you can experience one of the best parts of the Valley. Grab a cup of coffee and watch the sunrise either from a hotel-room balcony or the Wildcat Trail hike. In the winter, sunrise was at around 7:20. Bundle up on the balcony while you race against the clock with your camera. The images never seem to live up to what you see in person. If only our eyes could take photographs.



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Thursday, February 14, 2013

Things to do in Southern California

I usually advocate exploring the state over heading elsewhere on vacation, but sometimes you just have to get away. Arizonans escaping to Southern California can choose from these entertainment options:

For a wild experience, visit this wolf conservation and research center, home to rare wolves. It's located 50 miles east of San Diego.

Picnic, hike, camp, explore caverns and soak in picturesque views of the giants Sequoias or Kings Canyon. 

Splurge or catch a movie at the open-air shopping center featuring more than 140 retail stores and restaurants, which cover 1.5 million square feet of retail space.

Experience the non-stop action at this thrill-ride haven, with exciting rides such as the Full Throttle, debuting in 2013, the world's tallest and fastest-looping roller-coaster. 

Farmers Markets
Shop for and sample local foods at various farmers markets throughout Southern California.

Enjoy dinner and a concert at the 1,400-seat water-side outdoor theater, located next to Humphreys Restaurant. It generally runs May-October and spotlights local and national talent.

With three locations in Southern California, music fans can rock out to songs from talented artists.

Bike Trails
Scenic bike trails abound, whether beachside or in valleys, grasslands, and parks.


           
Embark on a sailing adventure to the fun-filled island with plenty of activities to fill your days, including snorkeling, kayaking, hiking, shopping and boating.

Big Bear
Hit the slopes at Southern California's winter playground. There are myriad activities for the other seasons as well, including fishing and biking.

See the action unfold onstage at one of the professional theater company's many shows this season. 

This is not your average dinner theater: special effects, aerial stunts, swordfights and duels add excitement to guests’ meals. The show is set on a replicated 18th-century Spanish galleon. 

Stroll along the longest wooden pier on the West Coast, fish for California halibut and many more varieties or take the 25-cent shuttle to the restaurant on the end.

Sports fanatics will enjoy the multisport 68,000-square-foot museum, which contains valuable memorabilia, a state-of-the-art theater, displays ranging from amateur to professional sports and an interactive media center.

Nonstop laughs await at the nationally acclaimed improvisational comedy show, appropriate for all ages. Comedians perform based on audience suggestions.

Spreckels Organ Pavilion at Balboa Park
The historic venue features the world’s largest outdoor pipe organ and offers year-round organ concerts on Sundays.

Mosey along tranquil paths, check out the exhibitions, admire the koi pond, relax in the Zen garden or sip tea at the Tea Pavilion. Garden tours and classes are available.

Admire the acclaimed contemporary outdoor art installations displayed at UCSD. The campus is on a mesa overlooking the Pacific Ocean.

Yoga
Many yoga centers are found throughout Southern California, offering health and spiritual enlightenment through a variety of classes. Practice your poses at an oceanfront yoga class.

Venissimo, Mission Hills, San Diego or Del Mar
Cheese lovers will appreciate this fromage heaven. Attend the Academy of Cheese to learn how to make your favorite variety.

Legoland
Let the kid in you out at this theme park, which is home to more than 60 rides, attractions and shows. Dino Island, Pirate Reef adventure ride and Land of Adventure are among the fun options.

SeaWorld
Check out the Manta flying coaster, greet animal friends, check out the aquariums, get soaked on water rides, get up close to dolphins, dine with Shamu or catch a show at the 173-acre park. Education is also emphasized as you learn how to help the animals.         

Disneyland and California Adventure
Classic rides such as Matterhorn are now accompanied by Cars Land, which brings Radiator Springs to life.

*This list may grow.

Wednesday, February 6, 2013

Road trip: Dinosaur tracks near Tuba City and Cameron bridge

Somewhere approaching Tuba City on U.S. 160, you might notice hand-painted signs for dinosaur tracks. Chances are you'll be intrigued. We were compelled to stop on our way back from Monument Valley last weekend.

A red-lettered sign directed us onto a dirt road on the Navajo Reservation. To the left, jewelry stands sat empty, likely because of the gloomy skies and low temperatures on Sunday. Four people wandered around in the dirt, and we ventured in their direction.


A woman walked over and offered us a tour. We accepted her offer. The fast-talking, swift-paced woman directed us to a spot where the tracks begin and suggested taking a photograph from a low angle. She seemed to have her script prepared.


She led her shivering tourgoers over to various-size tracks, saying, "This is probably from a T-Rex" or "They call this a triceratops."


Our guide said the Navajos discovered the tracks and fossils when they came into the area. She shared a story of her visiting the tracks on an eighth-grade field trip.



Whether one chooses to accept the information presented is an individual choice, but witnessing the evidence of prehistoric life is reason enough to visit. We saw petrified wood, fossilized bones, dinosaur eggs, droppings, and tracks of many sizes. Some estimated that these dino footprints were imprinted in the mud about 200 million years ago.

The woman offered to show us more, but it was starting to rain. We tipped her $10, which seemed fair for 15 minutes of her time. (She said $20 was a standard donation; however, she seemed to appreciate any amount we gave her.)

Our next stop was a historic suspension bridge in Cameron. The span was built in 1911 by the Midland Bridge Company and runs parallel to the current bridge that takes traffic across the Little Colorado River gorge. The Cameron Trading Post sits on the other side of the river.

 A fence prevents walking on the Cameron suspension bridge. 
I subscribe to the belief that it's all about the journey, not the destination. Random stops like this are what make road trips unforgettable. Pull over next time you have the chance.